The heart of Cómpeta: El Paseo de las Tradiciones

Posted on June 19, 2011 by Marianne under Axarquía, Places

You can find El Paseo de las Tradiciones (The Walk of the Traditions) in the main square, Plaza Almijara, of the white, mountain village of Cómpeta. Completed in 2009 on the site of the old municipal market, El Paseo de las Tradiciones is annexed to the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción).

As you stroll from the busy square, through the archway into the Paseo de las Tradiciones you will discover an oasis of calm. The floor is decorated with an intricate Moorish pattern of terracotta and white tiles, alongside a series of ceramic murals celebrating the lives of generations of the ordinary working people of the village.

One wall of the Paseo de las Tradiciones pays testament to the trades and deeply rooted traditions of the people of Cómpeta through the ages. The beautifully modern, brightly coloured tiling in each of the alcoves was developed in the workshop of potter and sculptor, José Antonio Rivas.

The nine alcoves, each 3 metres high and 2 metres wide, not only depict the history of the collecting of the local vines, the muleteers and village smithy, old olive oil factory and the public laundry, but also recognize the contribution made by the Moors, who for 800 years did so much to improve the cultivation of the summer-dry, winter-wet sierras, bringing the first prosperity to the village.

The past 500 years since the building of the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption have not been easy for the people of Cómpeta. The expulsion of the Moors, two great earthquakes followed shortly by a cholera epidemic, and the vine disease phylloxera,which devastated crops all over Europe in the mid-19th century, have all taken their toll, but the spirit of the villagers continues to thrive, as epitomized throughout the Paseo de las Tradiciones.

Where is your “oasis of calm”?

Whilst you´re here, why not have a look at:

The elegant, main shopping street of Málaga

I can see Africa from my terrace!

All at sea with the Virgen del Carmen

Venturing further afield: A day trip to Gibraltar

Posted on May 10, 2011 by Marianne under Places

We love to travel not only locally, but throughout Spain, so I will also include information, from time to time, about where we have visited. Usually these places can either be driven to within a few hours of our home, east of Málaga, or we will have flown there from Málaga (AGP) airport.

This week we have family from England staying with us. As they are very familiar with the area east of Málaga, we took the opportunity to venture out of the Axarquía.

Driving west from Málaga along the E15/A7, not a single road-sign mentions the British territory of Gibraltar. You just have to figure out when to exit the highway (at La Linea de la Concepción, the Spanish town close to the foot of the Rock). By the time you see a sign for Gibraltar, you are within walking distance!

Photographs cannot prepare you for the physical reality of Gibraltar. The scale of the 430 metre high boulder – sheer on one side, a city of 30,000 people clinging to the bottom third of the other – still causes a jolt when you come over the last ridge to find it looming in front of you.

Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory located on the southern end of the Iberian Peninsula. The Rock of Gibraltar, one of the Pillars of Hercules in Greek mythology, has a strategic location on the Strait of Gibraltar where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea, with Europe to the north and the continent of Africa to the south.

Both famous and enigmatic, Gibraltar contains some of the most extensive military fortifications in Europe, spanning over 1200 years of Moorish, Spanish and British history. The territory covers just over 6.5 square kilometers and shares a 1.2 kilometre land border with Spain.

Of course, what traditionally attracts the tourist to Gibraltar doesn´t disappoint either: stunning views of the entrance to the Mediterranean and the mountains of Morocco (including Jebel Musa, the other Pillar of Hercules), St Michael’s Cave, tunnels from the Great Siege of 1779-83 and, of course, the famous Barbary apes – Europe’s only wild monkeys. Local legend has it that as long as the Barbary Macaque population exists on Gibraltar, the territory will remain under British rule.

Being so close to Spain, Gibraltar shares the best of both cultures. You can see Spanish-style houses adorned with Victorian cast-iron balconies from England. The labyrinthine streets and alleys of the old town, reminiscent of nearby Spanish cities such as Cadiz, are dotted with iconic English phone booths, red Royal Mail boxes, bars with names like Lord Nelson and The Angry Friar as well as good old Marks and Spencer!

The old Gibraltar Airport building is shortly to be replaced with a new glitzy glass-fronted one, but the runway, the shortest in the world, will remain the same. The landing strip crosses the main road into the city, with traffic and passengers being halted to allow aircraft to take off and land.

One of the main reasons we travel the three hours to Gibraltar is to visit Morrison´s, the British supermarket, to buy groceries we can´t find in our local Spanish stores. We can also pay in Sterling, saving the need to change our money into Euros, as we have to do for our everyday living here in Spain. Our visitors meanwhile, took advantage of the cheap duty free cigarettes available at a fraction of the cost in the UK.

A good day was had by all!

What do you think about Gibraltar being a British territory?

Street Markets around the Axarquía

Posted on March 22, 2011 by Marianne under Slice of Life

Colourful, bustling street-markets are very much a part of everyday life here in Andalucía, for both locals and tourists alike. Every day of the week there is an open-air market in one or other of the pretty white villages or towns in the area.

Items for sale include brightly painted pottery, locally grown fruit and sometimes irregularly-shaped vegetables, spices, olives and nuts, as well as clothing, handbags, shoes and jewellery.

Often the slowly shuffling crowd will come to a complete standstill, as a new baby (much to the delight of his young mother) is fussed over and kissed by a multitude of Spanish women, amid cries of “guapo” (which means that the baby is gorgeous!), totally oblivious to all around them.

When waiting to be served at a busy fruit and vegetable stall, with customers standing several deep all around, you just have to stand your ground and shout up when you think it´s your turn, or the little old ladies wearing black will surely push their way in front of you!

These photos were taken at the street-market at Caleta de Vélez, but this is a fairly typical scene across the Axarquía. It is wonderful to buy such fresh, locally-grown fruit and vegetables.

Beats the supermarkets any day, with good prices too!

Why not visit a local market today? There’s sure to be one!

MONDAY: Torrox pueblo and Torrox Costa

TUESDAY: Nerja, Trapiche (Farmers Market)

WEDNESDAY: Algarrobo Costa, Rincón de la Victoria

THURSDAY: Frigiliana, Torre Del Mar, Vélez-Málaga

FRIDAY: Almuñecar, La Cala Del Moral (Rincón de la Victoria)

SATURDAY: Cómpeta, Caleta de Vélez, El Palo (Málaga)

SUNDAY: Nerja (Car Boot)

Where’s your favourite street-market, and why? Do you know of any others in the Axarquía?

Playing the Spanish Markets

When life gives you curves, flaunt them!

The Buddhist Stupa of the Eastern Costa del Sol

Balcón de Europa, Nerja

Posted on February 2, 2011 by Marianne under Places

In the heart of the old town of Nerja on the eastern Costa del Sol, the Balcony of Europe (Balcón de Europa) stretches out into the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.

History books show that in the 9th century this was the placement of a Moorish castle, with a fortress being erected on the same site in the early 16th century to provide coastal defences. The fortress was completely destroyed in 1812 by the English navy during the Peninsular War.

The scenic promenade adorned with palm trees and exotic plants is paved with marble, and is the focus of many local cultural activities and a popular meeting place. Pavement artists, buskers and groups of talented local artistes can be found here most evenings, making it popular with locals and tourists alike.

The Balcón de Europa is usually buzzing with activity as visitors wander along the promontory to the mirador or viewpoint which affords panoramic views along the rocky coastline to the east, with their backdrop of the magnificent Sierra Almijara mountains.

In 1885 King Alfonso XII visited the area to see the damage caused by a disastrous earthquake on Christmas Day 1884. The King was captivated by the beauty of the area and legend has it that he was responsible for naming it “Balcón de Europa” however, local archive documents are said to show that its name predated this visit.

A bronze statue of King Alfonso XII has been erected to commemorate his visit to the town. The statue depicting the King leaning on the railings enjoying the magnificent view has become a focal point for many souvenir photographs, along with two iron cannons which provide a significant reminder of the Balcon de Europa‘s strategic past.

You might also like to visit:

The beautiful Lake Viñuela

Capture the Colour: Red, Green, Blue, Yellow and White

In Plane View: Inside Out

Photographs I love …. and why! [1]

Posted on December 27, 2010 by Marianne under Photographs I love

This is just one of a series of photos I have taken, and will share with you over time, capturing the essence of living east of Málaga. Each one, in it’s own unique way, reminds me of why I love living in southern Spain, and in particular the Axarquía.

This photograph was taken during Spring-time from my house in the countryside, looking down the valley towards the Mediterranean Sea. Of course, the water isn’t visible as there is a thick sea mist rolling in.

On days when the mist rolls in, there is a constantly changing scene. Sometimes the white-washed fincas on the opposite side of the valley can be clearly seen. Other times the cloud completely surrounds the valley below our villa and obliterates our view of everything.

This is a magical time. It’s as if we are the only people on Earth and the house becomes “our castle in the clouds!”