STAR OF THE SEAS: VIRGEN DEL CARMEN

Virgen del Carmen, Torre del Mar, Spain

Over the past couple of days, various festivities in honour of the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors, have been in full swing.

Around 16th July each year,  many of the coastal towns and fishing villages of Spain celebrate by parading the statue of Virgin del Carmen through the streets, accompanied by the steady rhythm of a brass band, the resounding thump of a drumbeat and the cries from the crowd of “guappa” or “viva” as the statue passes by.

At dusk, after the procession arrives at the water’s edge, the Virgin del Carmen is taken out to sea on a flower-decked boat, accompanied by a flotilla of fishing boats (jábegas),to bless their fishing grounds.

The Virgen del Carmen is of great importance to the inhabitants of Axarquían towns and villages such as Caleta de Vélez, Nerja, Rincón de la Victoría and Torre del Mar because many larger towns and holiday resorts along the coast were once small fishing villages where the sea provided their daily existence.

But we need to look back to the scriptures of the Old Testament, centuries before the birth of Christ, for the origin of the Virgen del Carmen.

The Bible tells us that the prophet Elijah went up Mount Carmelo near Haife, in Israel to pray for rain to relieve a great drought that had parched the lands.  Whilst Elijah was on Mount Carmelo, he saw white clouds forming, which would bring the much needed rain.  Elijah interpreted the clouds as a sign of the coming of a Saviour who would be born of a Virgin.

In gratitude for the rain, the community dedicated itself to praying for the mother of the Saviour to come, and the Order of the Carmelites was formed.

On 16th July 1251, the Virgen del Carmen is said to have appeared to Englishman, Simon Stock, who was responsible for building Carmelite monasteries throughout Europe in the 13th century.   The story goes that when she appeared to him, the Virgen was holding a scapular and she promised that Carmelites who show their devotion should use this as a sign of privilege that they would be “granted the grace of final perseverance and be delivered from eternal Purgatory”.

Scapular worn for Virgen del Carmen, Torre del Mar, Spain
A scapular was originally an apron, forming part of the dress of a religious order, but for the lay-faithful, scapulars usually bear images, or verses from scripture.  Devotional scapulars typically consist of two rectangular pieces of cloth, wool or other fabric that are connected by bands. One rectangle hangs over the chest of the wearer, while the other rests on the back, with the bands running over the shoulders.

The Virgin Mary of Mount Carmelo (the Virgin of Carmen or Virgen del Carmen) is also known as Stella Maris (Latin for Star of the Sea) which is the name given to the Pole Star (Polaris) used by mariners for centuries as celestial navigation.

EDITED TO ADD: These photos were all taken during the evening of 16th July 2014 in Torre del Mar.  I had to wade out into the sea, above my knees, to take them because there were so many people on the beach, it was the only way of getting the chance of some good shots without thousands of heads or bodies in the way.   My sundress was soaked and I had to try to hold it up with one hand and take photos with my other.   Happy days :) 

Which is your favourite Spanish festival?

The Long and Short of San Isidro

San Isidro, Nerja, Spain

Whilst it’s true that there are fiestas and festivities in Spain throughout the year, I always feel that it’s the month of May that really kicks off the party season!

At the start of the month there’s El Día de la Cruz (the Day of the Cross) and last week I posted about my visit to the Patio Festival in Córdoba where I saw the most amazing displays of flowers.

The Romería de San Isidro takes place on 15th May each year, in honour of Isidro, a farm labourer who, according to legend, received divine assistance to perform his work and was known for his goodness toward the poor and animals. As a result he has become the patron saint of farm workers and other labourers in many Spanish-speaking countries.

San Isidro is also the patron saint of Nerja, so this is one of the biggest fiestas of the year to be held in the town.

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The festivities begin with a service at the church of El Salvador on the Balcón de Europa, before the effigy of the saint, (which normally resides at the Caves of Nerja), is taken back to the Hermitage of San Isidro in Maro.

The spectacular procession to accompany the Saint normally takes more than three hours and is a fantastic opportunity to see the many decorated carts, Andalucían thoroughbred horses, traditional costumes and pairs of magnificent oxen pulling beautifully adorned carts, including the one carrying the statue of San Isidro, himself.

San Isidro, Nerja, Spain

What was of particular interest to me this year, were the beautiful dresses worn by many of the ladies.

I noticed that as well as the traditional Spanish dresses, many of the younger women were wearing much shorter “flamenco-type” dresses with flat boots.  

Long Spanish dresses, Nerja

I love the elegant, longer dresses – but which do you prefer?

Short Spanish dresses, Nerja

Spanish dresses - long and short, Nerja, Spain

Anyway – back to the procession!

On arrival at the Caves of Nerja the celebrations really begin, with families and friends sharing picnics, paella, BBQs and, of course, plenty of wine and beer. This is followed by singing and dancing amongst the thousands of revellers until late into the night.

San Isidro is one of the best festivals of the year – vibrant, colourful and great fun. It usually heralds the start of good weather for the summer, as many locals say that the summer starts on 15th May!

Here´s hoping!

Which is your favourite Spanish festival or fiesta?

 

Cordoba’s Patio Festival 2014


Patio Festival, Cordoba , Spain

Even though I live in Spain, where it was Mother’s Day last Sunday, I still celebrate the day at the end of March, at the time of Mother’s Day in England, because that’s where I’m from and my family live there.

But, I know that many of you are celebrating Mother’s Day today, so I’ve got a real treat for you.

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Last week I visited Cordoba, one of my favourite cities in Spain, for the annual Patio Festival (La Fiesta de Los Patios de Cordoba).  

 The old part of the city consists of narrow cobble-stone streets with the houses white-washed to keep them cool during the very hot summers.  Many of these old houses or apartments are situated around a private, interior courtyard accessible only to residents.

Patio Festival, Cordoba , Spain

The origin of these courtyards can be traced to Roman times, when the courtyard (known as an atrium) was a place where rainwater was collected.

Later, the Moors who dominated this area of Spain for so long, made the courtyard a much more social space.  They planted vines so that their branches could offer shade during the very hot summer months, and pretty water features and pots of flowers were added making the patios a place where neighbours could get together and enjoy the cooler temperatures.

Patio Festival, Cordoba , Spain

Of course, these courtyards or patios form part of private houses, so are normally closed to the general public.   But, for two weeks in May each year, as families compete for the most beautiful patio in Cordoba, they are thrown open so that members of the public can visit each of these patios.

Patio Festival, Cordoba , Spain

A few have plaques on the wall outside, announcing their previous successes in the Patio Festival, but all of the competing patios are identified by two little conifer trees in red pots outside the gate.

All, but one or two of the Patios are FREE to visit, though a small donation is appreciated (but not obligatory) as you leave.

Bear in mind that Los Patios de Cordoba is a very popular (and famous) Festival in Spain, with hoards of tourists – both international and local – descending on the city every day.  Weekends are especially busy, and a free ticketing system has now been established, to enable some semblance of order and safety when visiting the often tiny patios.  (See link below to get your free tickets).

Patio Festival, Cordoba , Spain

You can collect a map from the Tourist Office, on which six colour-coded routes to visit are identified, each with between 8-12 patios to visit.  (See link below to download a map).

The competing patios are open from 11am – 2pm and 6pm – 10pm each day from 5th – 18th May 2014.

How would you fancy watering all these pots?

Further information:

HISTORY OF THE PATIOS

PROGRAMME

DOWNLOAD A MAP OF THE ROUTES

FREE TICKETS

 

Following the tapas route around Torre del Mar

Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

From 1st May until 1st June, Torre del Mar is hosting the third “La Ruta de la Tapa” (Tapas route) around the town.  With 24 establishments taking part, and a drink plus tapa for only 2 euros, it’s a great way of trying out some new places to eat.

Here’s how to join in the fun!

  • Choose one of the bars and restaurants taking part, and when you go in mention that you are taking part in La Ruta de la Tapa.  You will be served with a specially prepared, gourmet tapa and offered a choice of drink.
  • Ask for a Tapas Route Passport and have them stamp it.
  • Each establishment is numbered and shown on the map on the back of the Passport.   Follow the route around Torre del Mar.
  • Make sure to get a stamp in your Tapas passport for each new place you visit and eat one of the special tapa.
  • When you’ve visited all 24 establishments, hand in your completed and stamped passport for a chance to win 300 euros!

Here are some of the tasty (and not so tasty) tapas I’ve enjoyed so far this month:

Vintash - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

This is “Bacalao en tres textures con muselina de alioli”  which is a cod-fish tapa from Vintash, Avda. Andalucia esquina con C/Bateria (and one of my favourites, so far!)

Las Yuccas, Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

Next is “Volován con morcilla de Burgos, queso de cabra y piruleta de chocolate blanco con chorizo”,  a black pudding dish with a white chocolate lollipop from Las Yucas, Avda. Andalucia 64, dup. (Yes, another favourite).

Bar Centro - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

Café Bar Centro, Calle del Mar 25, offered delicious Spanish ham with “Coca de pan de cristal con Ibérico”.

Brujas - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

The tapa at Brujas, Paseo Maritimo, Ed. California IV bajos, is “Redondo de verdura, queso y salsa de arandanos” – delicious vegetables, goat cheese and cranberries  (and yet another of my personal favourites!)

20 de Tapas - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

“Delicias de primavera” is Spring-time on a plate at 20 de Tapas at Avda. Toré Toré.

Mi Mundo - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

“Mini brochetas de polo braseado con salsa Tikka Masala y patatas artisanas” is a delicious chicken curry dish from Mi Mundo, Avda. Toré Toré 16.

A Lareira - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

“Roll relleno de pollo y setas silvestres, con reducción de vino de Málaga y virutas de foie” is another tasty chicken dish from A Lareira, Calle Pasillo Batería, 7.

Casa Andrés - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

“Brocheta marinera con verduras en tempura y mahonesa de marisco” , is a delicious fish-skewered tapa from Casa Andrés, Paseo de Larios 36.

El Rincón de Paco - Ruta de la Tapa, Torre del Mar

And last and, in my opinion, very much the least, is “Bacalao Rincón de Paco” offered by El Rincón de Paco (Number 11 on the tapas route) on Paseo Maritimo.  On paper it should have been OK (cod), but it was drizzled in loads of unidentifiable sweet stuff, and what the bright pink and green things were, I don’t know!   I left my glass of red wine (vino tinto)  which tasted like vinegar – so all in all they will be getting 0/5  **Shudder**

 

So, these are the bars and restaurants I have visited so far on La Ruta de la Tapa in Torre del Mar, but I’ve lots more places to visit before June 1st.   Wish me luck!  

Which of these tapas would you like to try?  Or, if you are in La Axarquía and joining in – which is YOUR favourite tapa?

 

FYI … there is a similar Ruta de la Tapa going on in Nerja during May, too.  Click HERE for information :)