I love discovering and exploring burial sites wherever I am in the world, not because of any morbid fascination with death, but in the expectation of visually recording their beauty, history and existence. To me, cemeteries are places where art, history and world religion meet.
Of course, visiting the graves of our ancestors is a ritual dating back as long as bodies have been buried, allowing families not only to grieve but also to honour and celebrate lives that have passed.
In Spain, cemeteries still form an integral part of community life.
The only round cemetery in Spain can be found in Sayalonga, a typical whitewashed village some 40 kilometres east of the city of Málaga and 9 kilometres from the coast, deep in the heart of the Axarquía region. You might remember Sayalonga from my recent post about the narrowest street in the Axarquía.
Despite it’s name, the outer walls of Cementerio Redondo, as you can see from the photos, are actually octagonal with rows of parallel, oblong traditional graves added more recently, in the centre. The older, individual dome-shaped tombs are constructed on top of each other giving the impression of a giant, white honeycomb.
Originally, the village cemetery was in the courtyard of the local church of Santa Catalina, however, the Round Cemetery was constructed during the first half of the 19th century and, for hygiene reasons, placed just outside of the village limits.
The motive for this curious shaped cemetery isn’t known, but one explanation is that it was built in imitation of the old cemetery. I prefer the more romantic interpretation that it was so that the dead could not turn their backs on one another.
There is a small visitor centre at the entrance, which shows and explains the history of the cemetery to more than 3000 tombstone tourists each year.
So, where is Sayalonga’s Cementerio Redondo?
About a forty minute drive east of the city of Málaga along the A7-E15 Autovía del Mediterraneo to km 277, take the exit signposted A 7206 inland towards Algarrobo (pueblo), Sayalonga and Cómpeta. Stay on the A7206 through the village of Algarrobo and drive up the winding mountain road for a further five minutes until you reach Sayalonga.
There is a mirador (viewpoint) on your left as you are leaving the village heading towards Cómpeta, which gives a good view of the Round Cemetery.
Are you a fellow taphophile? Do you enjoy visiting cemeteries when you are on vacation? Where’s the most unusual cemetery you’ve ever visited?
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I love cemeteries ! The one in Comares is also very lovely ! Everytime we visit Comares, we go to the cemetery. And from up there you have the most beautiful views !
Yes it is, Caroline … amazing views from the cemetery at Comares.
Interesting…This is my first time I’ve ever saw a honeycomb cemetery! Actually I was curious about it because I saw a picture of similar tombs here in Philippines.
http://www.backpackingphilippines.com/2012/03/old-cemetery-and-ermita-ruins-in-dimiao.html
I love your picture!!! They are always interesting and the colours are so vivid!!! The round cemetery is amazing, do you have any idea what kind of diameter it has to give me some idea of actual size? (Approximately – I don’t want you going back armed with a tape measure lol)
By the way, could a taphophile also be someone who loves being Welsh lol (as in taffophile 🙂 🙂 🙂 )
Look forward to your next installment, Kay
Hahaha …. love it! I guess a taffophile would be a Welsh cemetery tourist! 😉
I’m pretty hopeless at guessing sizes – maybe 50 metres?
Thanks for your very kind words, Kay 🙂
Beautiful place! I’m like you – cemeteries are so much more than a place where the decease rest.
Very peaceful – and not at all morbid.
Thanks for your comment Cat, very much appreciated 🙂
Great pictures Marianne, I just love visiting Cemeteries also, there is a very special air of calm within them, I guess these cemeteries are above ground as it would be so difficult excavating rock in the mountains to bury people, I understand in Italy they have similar cemeteries but they are standing vertically !
That’s it, Roberto, exactly right – difficult to excavate.
Glad you enjoyed the photos. Thanks for letting me know 🙂
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Learned a new word here, taphophile. I´m not one but I must say that passing might seem less scary if one were to rest in peace in such a pretty cemetery.
Hi Mo – it was a new word for me, too – but at least it’s nice to put a word to my little hobby 🙂
The attitude to death here in Spain has made it a much less scary event to me. It’s treated as much more a part of life and seems like a healthy attitude.
Marianne, I am also fascinated by cemeteries when I travel. I love to see how different cultures bury and respect their dead. This cemetery is beautiful; I love the honeycomb shapes of the tombs and the whitewashed color. I love the romantic interpretation of why the cemetery was built like this: so the dead couldn’t turn their backs on each other. A very nice thought indeed. 🙂
I think it says a lot about a culture how it buries it’s dead.
Me too! You know in Oman the cemeteries are just open fields with small unmarked stones. To passers-by, it looks like a field of rocks and you’d never know it was a cemetery!
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I am not a taphophile, but if all cemeteries were this interesting I would easily become one ;). Fascinating, Marianne!
I guess you have to go and have a look to see just how interesting they are 🙂
It’s always lovely to hear from you, Paula.
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Visiting cemeteries isn’t something I would’ve thought of doing when abroad but I can see why people would… these are really interesting in design, so different to what we would be use to in the UK that’s for sure! Great post, lovely photos, love those blue skies! 🙂
Thanks for your lovely comment – much appreciated.
I’ve visited cemeteries all over the world. It’s a real eye-opener! 🙂
Totally agree. I love them too. I love the idea that death is a part of life, and not something to shy away from, even though it’s often hard to understand or accept. Wandering around a small graveyard recently I wondered about the folk on the plaques, and somehow thought that the wondering kept them “alive” even though I didn’t know them, does that make sense? LOL, well, it did to me.
Perhaps it’s the climate, but Spanish cemeteries are especially lovely, and this one looks very special, a fitting resting place for someone one loved. Thanks for this post.
Death IS a part of life, that’s for sure, though as you say, Linda, sometimes very difficult to accept. I understand what you mean about keeping at the memory of them alive by wandering around cemeteries.
Don’t you also think that Spanish cemeteries, usually being above ground, are less “scary” than ones back home?
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Fascinating. I’ve never seen or heard of anything like this. I like the idea of families being intered together in the honeycomb fashion.
My love of family history and wandering old cemeteries goes hand in hand. We have an old family cemetery near where my grandparents’ farm was near Scone in country NSW which is interesting to visit, and in search of graves of my ex-husband’s Irish immigrant ancetors I visited a very old cemetery at Koroit in Victoria near Port Fairy. And of course the G.O. convict ancestors’ graves at Parramatta and Wilberforce.
I remember your interest in this, Ella Dee. Your post was fascinating about GO’s convict ancestors buried in Parramatta. When we were in Sydney, last Christmas, we spent a whole day exploring Rookwood cemetery – which was amazing and SO huge!
I’ve only been to the new part of Rookwood. Have you been to Waverley Cemetery? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waverley_Cemetery – I haven’t but I’d like to 🙂
Yes I have! We did it when we were doing the Bondi to Coogee walk! OH you must – the views are to die for 😉
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One of the latest cemeteries I visited, I was on an excursion with a whole bunch of people, and they all CROWDED en masse to get a gawk into this very beautiful, small-town cemetery with lots and lots of gorgeous, colourful flowers, just so they could peek at – Rocío Jurado’s grave!
OOHHHH where was that, Serena?
I’m not too sure, I think it was Chipiona. It was a trip that meandered through several towns. But I think most people there were Rocío Jurado junkies and just wanted to see all the places that she used to walk on haha. We even went to visit a very large statue of Rocío Jurado!
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Loved the pictures, even though they are of cemeteries. Specially since we just came back from a vacation to Madrid, Segovia, Avila and Barcelona.
Shakti
Excellent Shakti – I hope you had a wonderful time!
the most unusual cemetery you’ve ever visited?
a large Jewish in New York …
🙂 ….. Why is it so unusual, Frizz?
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That’s cool – i’ve never seen or heard of honeycombed graves before…
Me neither, Richard, but I certainly enjoyed my visit 🙂
I’ve never seen nor heard of any cemetery like this one, Marianne. Like your photos, it’s striking in so many ways. Thank you for bringing it to our attention.
It’s a bit more unusual than most, John, that’s for sure.
As always, thanks for your kind comment 🙂
Unique and beautifully photographer.
Thanks 🙂
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How beautiful! Your photos are quite stunning. I find cemeteries to be absolutely fascinating. For me, they’re a wonderful study of the local history and culture. My 6 year old grandson showed quite an interest in a burial ground (Trinity Burial Ground) we came across recently that is smack dab in the middle of Downtown Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Turns out to be the oldest unreconstructed historical site in the city. He was fascinated by which people and families had the biggest markers and why. I love that!
What a lovely story, Jody. I think it’s important that children have some exposure to death, and this is an excellent way. My late grandmother used to tell me (when I was a little girl that the people who had the biggest tombstones in the graveyard had been bad people in life and the stone was to keep them under!
Hahaha …. this was also the lady who told me that when she died, they would put her in a glass coffin in the cupboard under the stairs, and every time I went into the cupboard for anything – she would wink at me! Funnily enough, at the time I thought that was pretty cool!
That is pretty cool! 😉
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Ha! I knew this was another Curves post, Marianne. 🙂 There’s so much variety in this theme. This is one of the loveliest cemeteries I’ve seen.
Yes, you guessed correctly, Jo!
Pretty cool, isn’t it? 🙂
Deathly! 🙂
LOL …. you could say I have a grave interest 😉
There is much local history stored in cemeteries – I have always been interested in history, so if I have time on my travels too commercial – find to visit local cemeteries… 😉
Yes, you’re right – they are full of history 🙂
Stunning photo’s of the cemetry Marianne! What a lovely place indeed. Thanks for sharing hon. 😀 *hugs*
Thanks Sonel. Have a great weekend 🙂
You too hon. 😀 *hugs*
That’s cooool! Not morbid – don’t worry! I visited an awesome cemetery in Buenos Aires a few years ago. I can’t remember the name. ‘Recoleta’, maybe? Anyway, it was massive, all grandiose and royally clad and I had a good time getting lost in it. Great pics Marianne!
Sounds fascinating 🙂 Best not to get lost near to closing time, though!
I love it! the community continues doesn’t it?
It does indeed, Gilly 🙂
What an interesting looking cemetery! Apart from the shape of the tombs, I love that the whole thing is white washed. (Anything white washed and set against a deep blue sky is worthy of a photograph as far as I’m concerned!) Thank you for sharing another beautiful spot from your corner of the world!
Most of the cemeteries around here are white-washed, Sally – and yes, it does make for excellent photos:)
I love cemeteries too but this is far grander than the one in our village
They are all very special 🙂
Beautiful place, very well captured… 🙂
Thanks so much 🙂
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That is so fascinating, Marianne! The only round cemetery in Spain is in Sayalonga!
It’s a very interesting place to visit, Amy 🙂 Thanks so much for your comment – much appreciated.
Never seen anything like it, amazing.
Not far down the road from you, if you fancy a visit sometime 🙂
JUST AMAZING!!!
Thanks Kathryn 🙂
taphophile huh? this one looks wonderful. The Big Easy does a good line in above ground cemeteries and if you haven’t already, next time you’re in London make time for the Highgate Cemetery (old side) tour.
Perfect pics for the theme.
Yeh, I can imagine! Would love to see the cemeteries (and the jazz funerals) around New Orleans 🙂
I’m so pleased to discover that other people enjoy visiting cemeteries on their travels. I thought I was just weird!!
…or, maybe we both are! LOL
Great curves!
🙂
Fascinating post and pictures
Thanks 🙂
Thanks so much 🙂
Amazing!!
There are some beautiful cemeteries in London… if you ever get the chance, visit Islington Cemetery (which is actually in East Finchley, but never mind!). It’s enormous, and I’ve spent many relaxing hours there, walking, and, in the autumn, blackerrying and picking mulberries 🙂
I’ve spent hours in cemeteries in Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia – everywhere I’ve travelled. I should write a book about it!!
Though, I’ve never visited any in London.
YES, you should!!!
Aw, there’s still time to rectify that 😉
LOL 😉
Fascinating post! Beautiful domes.
Glad you enjoyed it Debbie, and thanks for letting me know 🙂